Eva Lea Klein spent 18 years working at a department store in her home country of Brazil. She later moved to Florida and accepted the position of tailor at a Banana Republic clothing shop in Boca Raton. As a tailor, Eva Lea Klein finished, joined, and reinforced a variety of clothing items. Stretchy fabrics are popular options for activewear, but they are notoriously difficult to sew. Handling these fabrics properly involves lining up a pattern with the direction that has the greatest amount of stretch. Lining up the pattern allows wearers to enjoy a better fit from the stretch fabric. A tailor must cut stretch fabric carefully with a mat and rotary cutter to ensure clean cuts. Once the fabric is cut, the tailor should install a ballpoint needle in the sewing machine. Ballpoint needles have rounded tips that push the fibers of stretch fabric aside instead of piercing them. Ballpoint needles do not weaken or tear the fabric because they leave fibers intact. A tailor should use a polyester all-purpose thread on stretch fabrics. This thread is widely available and is somewhat stretchy, which helps ensure that hems and seams are resilient. Stretch fabrics do not pair well with straight stitches since they cannot accommodate the fabric’s movement. Instead, a tailor should use stretch or zigzag stitches. If a straight stitch is the only option, the tailor must hold the stretch fabric taut while sewing it.
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AuthorEva Lea Klein is an experienced retail salesperson and tailor in both Brazil and the United States. Archives
May 2018
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